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The process of painting pressure-treated wood involves steps you would not take—and considerations you would not make—with regular lumber. Here's what you need to know.

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It’s a two-sided coin: Painting pressure-treated wood comes with complications caused by the very same treatment that allows the material to last outdoors. To produce pressure-treated wood, the milled lumber (typically pine or cedar) is saturated with chemical preservatives. These chemicals minimize the wood’s natural vulnerability to insects and rot, but they also leave the wood rather wet—a state that will ultimately lead to your coat of paint eventually peeling. To paint pressure-treated wood successfully, therefore, you must be prepared to exercise a bit of patience.

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Painting before the wood’s ready simply wastes a day’s effort. For lasting results, follow the instructions below.

Project Summary

1. Clean the pressure-treated wood.
2. Let the wood dry (note: this can take weeks or even months!)
3. Apply primer.
4. Apply initial coat of paint.
5. Apply top coat of paint.

For full project details on how to paint pressure-treated wood, continue reading below.

How to Paint Pressure-Treated Wood

STEP 1: Clean the wood

First, before painting pressure-treated wood, it’s important to clean it. Use a stiff-bristled brush and soapy water. Once you’ve given due attention to the entire surface, rinse off the wood and allow it to dry thoroughly.

STEP 2: Let the wood dry

Between the chemicals used to treat the lumber and the water used to clean it, the drying time may be as protracted as a few weeks—or even a few months. How do you know when it’s ready? Once the wood feels dry to the touch, sprinkle a bit of water on it. If the water soaks in, then the wood can be painted. If the water beads up, go back to playing the waiting game. Note that for a time-sensitive project, it may be wise to choose pressure-treated wood marked as having been kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT). The timeline for painting KDAT wood is considerably more condensed.

STEP 3: Apply primer.

Only once you’ve confirmed that it’s dry can you begin painting pressure-treated wood. Start with primer formulated for exteriors, and make sure that the manufacturer lists the coating as suitable for use on pressure-treated wood. Note that, while priming and painting pressure-treated wood may be easiest with a paint sprayer, opt for a brush (or use both in combination) if the job entails detail work.

STEP 4: Apply two coats of paint.

Having primed the wood—and having allowed sufficient time for the primer to dry (it should take no more than a day)—move on to applying your top coats. You should expect to do two. Avoid using oil-based paint here; on pressure-treated wood, latex performs much better.

It’s worth mentioning that in outdoor applications where the finish will be subject to the elements, paint lasts longer on vertical surfaces like fences than it does on horizontal ones like decks. If you don’t like the idea of repainting every two or three years, consider staining the pressure-treated wood instead. Yet another option is to allow the wood to weather and become gray, and then to coat it with a protective sealant. Of course, sealant must also be reapplied, but many consider the job to be less demanding than repainting, which often entails scraping away parts of the old finish.

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WHAT FINISH TO CHOOSE FOR WOOD?

WATER BASED OR OIL BASED ?

We will try to answer these questions from the professional point. We have worked in this industry for the last 20 years, so we have seen the paint quality changing and we have adapted by trying different paints in different situations. We have watched how the paints have lasted over the years a tried new paints as they developed. Now we want to share this to make your lives easier.

OIL BASED VS WATER BASED

Oil based paints used to be the most popular choice in the past, but have lost their popularity as back in 2010 paint manufactures had to lower the amount of solvent in the paint, which caused it to yellow and people took it seriously. Yellowing problems have been solved by 2012, but as water based paints have developed better and better quality, oil based paints have never returned to where they were used to be. Although oil based paints look better, as they smooth out more comparing to water based, also coverage is better but the difference now, is not that big. Advantages of water based paints are the ability to not discolour, there is hardly any smell when working, dries quicker. Most of them now being eco-friendly, probably makes sense to choose water based over oil based, unless the visual finish is more important than the smell and drying times. Although there are some glosses that are equally as good whether they are oil based or water based, so now it boils down to personal choice and of course your budget.

GLOSS

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Gloss is 100% sheen and was created to last if used correctly. It’s more durable than other finishes and can be used indoors or outdoors if oil based finish is chosen. It is also suitable for wood and metal. It’s commonly used to paint high traffic areas, like doors, frames, skirting boards, windows and more. It’s popular at schools, communal hallways, GP surgeries, shops, etc. It used to be the most popular choice of paint back in a day as it would have outlasted other paint finishes and was easy to clean.

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Things to know when using gloss.

Gloss finish can highlight imperfections in wood, so the surface you are trying to paint needs to be prepared thoroughly. You need to use primer and undercoat, or gloss will simply soak into bare wood. Drying times are a little longer comparing to eggshell especially when using oil based paint.

SATINWOOD

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Satinwood is 50% sheen and is the most popular choice of paint finish for majority of interior woodwork. It is self-undercoating, so it means less different cans to buy, although we would still advise to use primer when painting the bare wood. It’s durable, so you can paint all interior wood, including doors, frames, skirting boards, window sills and even interior of wooden windows. Make sure to apply enough coats in order to achieve a good finish that would last. Water based satinwood intends to leave more visible brush lines compared to oil based satinwood, so needs extra effort when painting.

EGGSHELL

20% sheen finish. Very popular choice between designers and architects as it is visually pleasant as well as great to touch. It gives smooth, almost matt finish and helps to minimize imperfections. When drying and while it is fresh, it might look like satinwood, but shininess goes away after about 2 or 3 weeks. It can be used in all styles of properties, but in high traffic areas might not last as well as gloss or satinwood. It gets dirty quicker, than other finishes, but can be cleaned easy enough. Eggshell is also self-undercoating, but again, we would advise to use the primer when applying to new wood. Some brands produce exterior eggshell as well as interior as long as it’s used with correct undercoat. Exterior eggshell durability won’t be equal to gloss though, there for we would advise to use more for interior projects. Water based eggshell will leave more visible brush marks comparing to oil based, although some brands can produce equally as good water based eggshell. Yet again, it boils down to personal choice when choosing between oil based or water based finish, but the higher the price the higher the paint quality will be.

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